Western Turkey

During a week-long voyage of Western Turkey, we visited many of lesser-trodden paths in search of a deeper insight into Turkey’s history. 

From Istanbul, we spent a week driving south along the coast to visit many of Western Turkey’s most iconic sites. Touring the ancient library at Ephesus, the site of the historic Trojan War and stopping off to appreciate gems like sunny seaside Ayvalik and mineral-rich Pammakale all made for an exciting and unpredictable odyssey.

Troy

Site of the 10-year war between the Greeks and Trojans in the 13th-century BC, and most well known through the stories told in Homer’s Iliad, focusing on warring heroes Achilles and Hector, Troy is remarkable for its long-standing foundations. Although the site is now in ruins, it’s easy to see how resplendent this city would have once stood. Alongside a visit to the archaeological ruins, it’s important to make time to visit the nearby museum, where visitors can delve into more detail about the site.

Among the stories told are of 19th-century German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who did more harm than good to the site and irreparably damaged centuries’ worth of fragile artefacts in an effort to gain power and recognition. A case study in hubris, we can learn a lot from his brazen theft of uncovered jewels, many of which he gifted to his wife as a display of his stolen wealth.

Ayvalik

During our tour we also visited the beautiful seaside town of Ayvalik. This wonderful town on the glittering coast felt like the authentic experience of a Turkish town without feeling as overwhelming as its larger cousin Istanbul. A wonderful collection of seaside markets, reverent mosques and local restaurants along the marina, this was a stop I wish we’d had longer to visit as there felt like much more to see.

After visiting a local, women-run collective that supported the community by providing jobs in craftmaking, we stopped by a mosque where two or three worshippers bowed in prayer. However, eager to make space before the 5pm prayer slot, we continued on to the town’s marketplaces, meeting wonderful vendors, savvy children trained in the art of haggling with tourists and more cats than you could count.

Selçuk and the ancient library at Ephesus

At Selçuk, we visited the ruins of Ephesus, an ancient Temple of Artemis before its occupation by Christians. The history of this significant site follows the myth of St Paul’s conversion on the road to Damascus and the subsequent spread of Christianity in the Aegean areas. Once forming part of Greece and Anatolia, these impressive 10th-century ruins stand at nearly 12,000 years old. Where archaeologists have carefully reconstructed certain elements, it’s easy to see the majestic library. Translating to ‘bee’ in Ancient Greek, the Temple of Artemis within Ephesus was known for its bee imagery and religious symbolism.

A nice add-on here is the interactive exhibit on site, hosting an immersive experience through the history of Ephesus, documenting its rise, fall and transformations throughout the classical period. While there’s a lot to capture the imagination for scholars of Biblical studies – Ephesus was one of the sites of the seven churches addressed by St Paul in his New Testament epistles – there’s also plenty for amateur historians with an interest in the classical world.

One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the library at Ephesus was less of the traditional library that we’re accustomed to seeing now, but a place of learning for hundreds of aristocrats to gather and discuss the latest scientific discoveries of the day. Once home to 12,000 scrolls, this Roman-era construction remains an impressive feat.

With its interpretative plaques and meticulously researched commentary in information boards around the site, it’s clear to see how much care and attention has gone into preserving this site throughout the years and making it accessible for modern visitors. And I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the incredible gift shop on site! 

Pammakale

The mineral-rich landscape of Pammakale was our final stop before catching an early flight back up to Istanbul. These beautiful white cliffs and hot springs are products of years of (largely safe) tectonic activity in the area and are now a popular destination for those looking for a beautiful natural landscape.

While it’s impossible to narrow down a single highlight of this leg of the tour, I have to say that, as a history lover, Ephesus and Troy really stood out to me. Stories in Homer’s Iliad and Virgil’s Aeneid came to life in their original settings, as did the toll of human life. But history moves on while remembering the great heroes of old and it was refreshing to visit with a lively group to see how ancient conquests had shaped our modern world.